Phase 1: Puja ceremony & Training
After we reach basecamp, we will get 1- or 2-days leisure day to acclimatize our body well. Our sherpa team will decide our puja day on very auspicious day according on lunar calendar. Puja ceremony in the other word is taking a permission with the nature to steps on their body. The local ethnic group from the valley believes that all mountain has its own gods and goddess, so we need to take a permission before we step on. Puja ceremony is performed by the monk from the near village, pangboche. Your guide will instruct you well on the day before the ceremony. The day will be full of relaxation, enjoyment, dancing, and singing.
After the day of auspicious puja ceremony, your training session will start for two days. One of our best climbing guides will lead a session which includes gear demonstration, walking on moreine, use of technical gears and walking on fix lines etc. Our team of guides will instruct you about using all technical gears and set up the fix line near our camp and show you the demo of walking on fix line using your high altitude all in one boot and crampon. The pre basic training session will take place for one or two days in basecamp.
After a great training of one or two days our Phase 1 of climbing is done, and you are ready to climb up furthermore.
Phase 2: Acclimatization rotation on Mountain.
We designed the best rotation that suits all levels of people who live at sea level, to acclimatize well on the mountain.
Ø Rotation 1: Touch 5000 meters.
On this day, we will try to reach minimum 5000masl for acclimatize more. We don’t use any kind of technical gear on this day. With a light bag pack of your pair of hardshell jackets, pants, 2 liters of water, enough snacks bars and pack of lunch, we will hike towards camp 1 and stop somewhere in the middle of the way and back to basecamp.
Approx Elevation Gain: 400-500meters (1500ft)
Highest Elevation: 5100masl.
Approx. walking Hour: 7 hrs.
Ø Rotation 2: Touch camp 6000 masl/ 19500ft.
On this rotation we will try to spend 3 nights on the mountain.The day will start with a good heavy breakfast. Our climbing guide will instruct you about the gears and clothing, what should pack in and not. Our support sherpa team will help you to carry tents, your sleeping bag, insulated flame mattress and some snacks. We expect you to carry a minimum of 15kg of wight. We are not using any kind of technical gear and boots on this day. The day is a full hike on the moraine following the southwestern ridge. It’s the easiest day of our expedition period if any natural hazards: snow, wind, don’t come. The last 20meter might have some fixed lines on so better to have your harness in your day bag. This day we spend at camp I (5650 meters 18,540 feet).
Approx Elevation Gain: 1000meters (3452ft.)
Highest Elevation: 5650masl/ 18540ft.
Approx. walking hours: 7-8hrs.
Overnight at VE25 tent or equivalent mountain tents.
All foods provided are high altitude ready to eat packet foods.
On the second day of our Rotation, we will try to reach around 5900masl/19300ft. which is just below camp II. The day will be technically harder than the first day. We will use all the technical gear except our crampons. *Sometimes depending on the snow conditions, we might use a crampon. * You can expect to carry a bag pack of around 8kg which includes your snacks, water bottles and pair of extra clothes. We will be back to camp I for overnight.
Approx Elevation Gain: 250meters (900ft.)
Highest Elevation: 5900masl/ 19300ft.
Approx. walking hours: 7 hrs.
Overnight at VE25 tent or equivalent mountain tents.
All foods provided are high altitude ready to eat packet foods.
On the third day of the rotation, we will go back to base camp for some days of good rest and good food.
With these three days of acclimatization rotation, we will complete our second phase of the expedition.
Phase 3: Summit rotation
After the hard work out, training and some relaxation, finally the most awaited moments will come. Our guide team will decide our summit rotations based on favorable weather conditions, less traffic, completion of fixed line on mountain and other conditions. Normally the summit rotation will like following:
Ø Day 1: basecamp to camp I.
Approx Elevation Gain: 1000meters (3452ft.)
Highest Elevation: 5650masl/ 18540ft.
Approx. walking hours: 7-8hrs.
Overnight at VE25 tent or equivalent mountain tents.
All foods provided are high altitude ready to eat packet foods.
Difficulty: easy walk on glacier moraine.
Expected weight of your bag: 15 kg
Ø Day 2: Camp I to Camp II.
Approx Elevation Gain: 350meters (1150ft.)
Highest Elevation: 6000masl/ 19700ft.
Approx. walking hours: 6 hrs.
Overnight at VE25 tent or equivalent mountain tents.
All foods provided are high altitude ready to eat packet foods.
Difficulty: Technical walk on narrow rocky ridge. We are climbing the famous yellow tower this day. Make sure you are following the instructions of your guide. We are not using our crampons except any special conditions apply but we are using all other technical gears: Helmet, Harness, ascender, High Mountain boot etc.
Expected weight of your bag: 15 kg.
Ø Day 3: Camp II to Camp III
Approx Elevation Gain: 270meters (890ft.)
Highest Elevation: 6277 meters (20594 feet)
Approx. walking hours: 5 hrs.
Overnight at VE25 tent or equivalent mountain tents.
All foods provided are high altitude ready to eat packet foods.
Today the climb will go harder than the before two days. We are using our all-technical gears: helmet, harness, ascender, high mountain boot, crampon etc. The climbs make it more adventurous because of some rock fall and falling glaciers. But our experienced guide will be with you all the time and take care of you.
Expected weight of your bag: 15 kg
Ø Day 4: Summit and Back to camp I.
Approx Elevation Gain: 535meters (1755ft.)
Highest Elevation: 6812 meters (22343 feet)
Approx. walking hours: 5hrs. climbing up and 6 hrs. down.
Overnight at VE25 tent or equivalent mountain tents.
All foods provided are high altitude ready to eat packet foods.
The final push begins in the early morning at 4am with a light breakfast. We are wearing our down suits today. *Depending on the weather condition. You will be notified by our guides. All our technical gear is used on this day. After the stunning summit on Mt. Amadablam, we must back all the way down to camp I because of the limited campsites of camp II.
Ø Day 5: Back to basecamp
Note: Mostly the climbers do not use camp III often. Our guide will decide at basecamp about using camp III or not, depending on your physical condition, speeds, times and other factors. This is just to remember that if we do not use camp III then the summit push will begin at midnight, and we might come back to camp I on the same day depending on the traffic and usage of campsites.
